Oh, for a Pillow!

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Many years ago, I began taking a pillow with me when traveling. I’ve always liked soft downy pillows and all too often, the ones I find in accommodations are otherwise. In Cairo at the Garden Hotel in 1983, there was what felt like a sack of hardened cement at the top of the bed. Who could possibly rest their head on such a forbidding surface? Having no alternative,...

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The Disgrace of Poaching (Ruaha National Park, Tanzania)

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It is the afternoon of August 12, 2003. I am in southern Tanzania. Josephat, our guide, is driving the Land Rover with my daughter, myself and two others on a game drive in Ruaha National Park. Suddenly, Josephat becomes engaged in a conversation on his two-way radio with other guides in the park. They are speaking in a language I do not understand in hushed tones,...

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Why I Hike

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To be outdoors in the sunshine. To gaze at the blue sky and its grand clouds, shades of white and gray, cumulus or lenticular. A modality that I share with other creatures, human and animal, but not with cars or buses or trains or planes. To rely on my body. To get there on my own two feet. To see the world from up high, glorious vistas, layers of mountains, giant...

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