I didn’t anticipate traveling again so soon, but Juliet and I decide at the last minute to go to Georgia (as a friend said to me “not the one with grits.” 😉).
Arriving in the capital, Tbilisi, I am impressed with its architecture, art, cleanliness, and cosmopolitan feel. It is a fine walking city and one day, Juliet and I walk miles taking in the sights, including the excellent national museum.
We join a group of eight others and two guides, the latter of whom share with us the complex history of Georgia. Surrounded by Russia, Turkey, Azerbaijan, Armenia, and the Black Sea, over millennia the country was invaded by Persians, Turks, Mongols, Ottomans, and Russians, among others. It became a Christian nation in the 4th century, and flourished in the 11th and 12th centuries. Georgia was incorporated into the Soviet Union in 1921, until it declared independence in 1991. However, this was short-lived, and since 2008, relations with Russia have been tense as Russia maintains control of two large Georgian territories. Georgia’s aspirations for closer ties with the West have suffered as a result. That said, the people are friendly, warm, hospitable, and value close family ties. The current population is 3.6 million; its size is smaller than the American state of Georgia; literacy is 100%. Wine-making has long been a tradition and there are thousands of wineries in the country.
After several days in the capital, we depart for the mountains and Tusheti National Park. On our way, we drive through wine country vaster than California’s Napa Valley, and what our guide calls the “breadbasket of Georgia,” comparable to that of California’s central valley. Three four-wheel drive vehicles take us on a road the likes of which I have never seen. Carved into the mountains with vertiginous drop-offs of thousands of feet and minimal guardrails, the road is made of dirt and rock and takes more than four hours to traverse. Built by the Soviets over three years from 1976 to 1979, it is an engineering marvel and a hair-raising drive with multiple switchbacks climbing slowly up and over a 9,000’ pass and then down in similar fashion. Waterfalls from snowmelt cross the road in various locations. These along with deep ruts and opposing traffic require careful negotiation. The vehicles, the surrounding foliage, and we are covered in dust. Upon safely reaching our destination, the four of us in the jeep shout bravo to the driver and give him a round of applause. The road is closed from October 20 until May 20 each year. Photos simply don’t capture this experience.
We spend four days in the mountains of Tusheti NP, hiking from village to village. In each, we stay in simple guest houses where we are treated to home-cooked meals of traditional Georgian dishes, most notably Khinkali, adorable dumplings filled with meat or potatoes. Delicious! The attractive buildings are constructed of local stone, and there is a spectacular Orthodox church built 250 years ago in the home village of one of our guides. The weather is lovely punctuated by a few downpours with thunder and lightening. The villages sit high in the mountains in close proximity to the Russian border, and Russia continues to encroach upon the sovereignty of Georgia. Winter comes early and stays late. Most of the 7200 residents move down lower on the steep mountains where the temperature is slightly warmer and the snow less deep. Accompanying them are their horses and livestock, quite an undertaking.
Whenever I travel to mountainous countries, I am in awe of their beauty and think that the one where I currently am is the most exceptional. I realize now that each is exceptional in its own way and Georgia is no different. Hiking here is special, the views unique. I feel fortunate to have come here. Each hike through forests and along open ridges exceeds 10 miles and 3,000’ of elevation gain and loss topping out at over 9,000’. With aching muscles and sore feet, I am thrilled to put away my boots for the next few days.
Our final destination is Kazbegi, a 3 1/2 hour drive north of Tbilisi. The mountains are stark, the landscape unforgiving, the weather mercurial. We visit an exquisite Georgian Orthodox monastery, newly built with the finest materials in a perfect setting, a stones throw from the Russian border. The contrast couldn’t be greater.
Next we go to a 14th century monastery high on the flanks of Mount Kazbegi (elevation 16,561’) with a commanding view. Orthodox monks still live in and serve the community there.
Coda: on our drive back to Tbilisi, traffic suddenly comes to a complete standstill. Hundreds of trailer trucks, buses, and cars are lined up. We learn that there’s been a landslide ahead, not surprising as during the night there had been a huge electrical storm and driving rain. Our group decides to set out on foot. Unbelievably, vehicles start passing other stopped vehicles until they are three or four abreast. Absurd! We arrive at the site of the landslide, more than a mile from where we left our van, and watch 3 gigantic tractors move dirt and rocks from the road. After a 2-hour delay, we resume our drive. As I often say, the unexpected is part of the adventure!
1 Comment
Wow, another unique adventure. Some of the golden hills remind me of here. Looking forward to hearing more!